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My Compagnie M. yellow coat!

By Monday,25 January,2016Blog

I’ve got a new favourite winter coat… I only own one winter coat. ;) After loosing a lot of weight, I had to start buying (and yes also sewing) a new wardrobe. A winter coat was one of the priorities on my to-sew-list for a long time, that’s why I follow a sewing course module with the original name: COAT. :)  Although I’ve been sewing for a while now, I keep on following courses. Never to old to learn some new techniques, isn’t it? (And yes I am turning grey already! Aaaarrrggghhh!)

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That’s exactly what I did when sewing this coat. I learned a lot from this project! Not only that I’ve always sewn coats in a totally wrong way, but also that a good coat pattern is crucial.

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After making a first muslin, my coat turnout out to be too wide at the back. That’s why in the end, I changed the back bodice by adding a princess seam. This way I skipped the original shoulder dart and I could copy the front style to the back. So muslin number two was a fact. With a perfect thanks to the help of my pattern course teacher (she’s always in the other class when I’m sewing at school!) I dared to start cutting my mustard yellow boiled wool. Such a beautiful fabric that I bought at Bobby Sewing. The perfect color for me, don’t you think? ;)

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Sewing this pattern turned out to be easy in the end. I love the pattern design a lot. It reminds me of the Jackie coat by Ienemiene. Only the pockets are added in a totally different way. I love this build-in-darts-pockets. (or how do you call those? ;) ) By the way: who spots a sneak preview of my new project in the picture below?

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What I don’t like about it is that it doesn’t include lining. Oh I hate it when coat patterns don’t come with a lining. Especially when the pattern only comes with a version that includes seam allowances. Can you image: first I had to subtract the seam allowances from the original pattern pieces and only then I could draw the lining ones. Afterwards of course I had to add seam allowances to these new pattern pieces. Yes, this turned out to be a lot of work. But in the end I’m very happy with my new coat, so I already totally forgot about that time consuming part.

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Another time consuming job when sewing coats is attaching the lining properly at the hem. I don’t like coats that you just close by topstitching the hem. I’ve learned that this is absolutely not a good way to finish a coat. I tried it twice when sewing Jackie coats and now that I know the right technique, I will never ever do that again. ( This doesn’t mean that the Jackie is a poor pattern: not at all. I love the design a lot!!! But I  would surely change the technique on how to close the hem. Maybe one day I’ll sew another Jackie and will explain you my technique.) The only right way to finish a coat is by hand. Yes, BY HAND. I’ve been sewing by hand a lot lately, just because it’s the only right technique for women clothes. :) I already start to like hand sewn hems. It’s time consuming, but in the end also very rewarding. :)

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What more can I tell about this project? I’ve been working on this coat for ages, so let’s see that I don’t forget any details. The buttons maybe. In purpose I placed the two buttons in the middle close to each other. That’s what I like about project like these. You can play with small details like an unusual button placement.  I also changed the length of the coat dramatically: I think in the end I took away about 20cm at the hem!

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This project was a long term one, but I’m super happy with the result. I’ve been wearing this coat for almost 2 months already. And I know you can tell from the pictures. I didn’t iron my coat before taking these pictures. Sorry! In general we have a rule that all hand sewn garments should be photographed before they may be worn, but I needed this coat so badly that I just started wearing it already.

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Pattern: Jaren 70 jas from ‘naai je complete garderobe’
Woollen fabric & buttons: Bobby Sewing
Lining fabric: Miss Daisy
Scarf: La femme garniture

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