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The tutorial you should definitely try!

By 09/05/2014Blog, Tutorial

Compagnie-M_Tutorials_How_to_hem_without_pensLately I’ve adjusted the method I used to sew a hem. Without using one single pin, you can perfectly finish hems, without using one single pin. Sounds like music to your ears? When just quickly go through this tutorial and you will never hate sewing hems again. ;)

The idea is simple. You make 2 stitching lines that you can use as a guidance to fold the fabric inwards twice. The only disadvantage of this method is the amount of thread is uses, but to compensate that I make my two first stitching lines with a long stitch length. And believe me, the time saving is much more important to me sometimes than this extra thread! Especially when I have to get the kids from school when I’ve just almost finished a garment. Know that feeling?

Now here’s the tutorial:

1. Adjust the settings of your machine to a long stitch length. Make a first stitch line(purple)  at 1cm (3/8 inch) from the edge. Don’t sew backward/ forward at the end when you want to remove these threads at the end (which you can choose).
2. Fold the fabric on this stitching line (1cm / 3/8 inch) while you create a second one (red). This second stitching line (red) has to be at presser foot width. Summery: Fold at 1cm (3/8 inch), but sew at presser foot width.
3. Fold the fabric again 1cm (3/8inch) inwards. To do this, you will use the edge of the fabric that is turned inwards as a guidance. Adjust the stitch length of your sewing machine to the normal stitch length. Sew at presser foot width for this last and final stitching line. Don’t forget to sew backward / forward at the beginning and the end. Summary: Fold at 1cm (3/8 inch) sew at presser foot width. Normal stitch length.
4. You can remove the first two stitching lines if you want to. I don’t! I’m a lazy type seamstress… ;)

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Compagnie M._how to hem without using one single pin 8
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Compagnie M._how to hem without using one single pin 12
Compagnie M._how to hem without using one single pin 13
Compagnie M._how to hem without using one single pin 14
Compagnie M._how to hem without using one single pin 15

Now I’ll show you this technique on a skirt that I’ve just finished, but didn’t blog yet. This fabric is my all-time favourite fabric. Can’t wait to show you the result!

1. Sew at 1cm (3/8 inch)

Compagnie M._how to hem without using one single pin 1
Compagnie M._how to hem without using one single pin 2

2. Fold at 1cm (3/8 inch) but sew at presser foot width.

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Compagnie M._how to hem without using one single pin 4

3. Fold again at 1cm (3/8 inch), sew at presser foot width.

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Compagnie M._how to hem without using one single pin 6

Hope this tutorial looks useful? I think you should just give it a try, because I would never sew hems in a different way anymore since I use this method!

11 Comments

  • ritinha.pirolita@gmail.com says:

    Yeahh Marte :-) I made my Lotta this way like you suggested and I love how quick it is and how perfect my hem looks. Thank you so much <3

  • sophie says:

    I told you already how much I like this new way of doing hems!! so clever and so easy! thanks

  • Suz says:

    I never ever pin my hems. I just overlock and press the hem allowance under and then sew:)

    • Compagnie M. says:

      I used to do that before, but then sometimes (when you have kids that can’t sit still like mine) you see this serged hem when they’re playing… So that’s why I’ve changed my working method! ;)

  • Amanda says:

    Great tutorial! Question – Why not just fold on the second stitching line or adjust your width so that you can also use that as a guide? It looks like you fold a little bit past the second stitching line.

    • Compagnie M. says:

      I fold were the edge of the fabric is. I fold 1cm twice, because I always added a 2cm seam allowance to my patterns. This way I didn’t need to change all of them. :)

  • Super smart, I’m definitely going to try this.

  • Eska says:

    Less pinning means fewer holes in my fingers. I will try this for my next skirt!

  • SewBubble says:

    Dat ziet er handig uit, moet ik zeker eens proberen!

  • Ana Sofia says:

    Thank you for sharing this tip!
    It’s definitely very useful and a time.saver – usually the hem is the last step and I’m in a hurry to finish the garment :)

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